“I usually wear two sets of clothes for half a year. This is one of them.” An old urchin stepped onto the stage, wearing a simple black single-breasted trench coat and a dark blue knitted wool that had pilled on the inside of the knee. Trousers, a pair of sturdy dark brown outdoor boots, and before anyone could laugh, he put his finger on his pursed lips mischievously and quickly added “Let me explain, underwear is my daily life. Change them all, and I’ll wear Calvin Klein.”
Many people present did not expect Yohji Yamamoto to appear like this. In this way, the character are known by world designers as “black poets” who appeared in front of Chinese audiences.
Yohji Yamamoto is a pioneer of the Japanese new wave in the fashion industry. He is also known as the troika of Japanese fashion along with Rei Kawakubo and Issey Miyake. He was also one of the avant-garde figures who broke into the Paris fashion scene in the 1980s. In 2014, he published his autobiography “MY DEAR BOMB,” which tells the story of his growth. Why is it inseparable from black? “Everything comes from life.” In the book, Yohji Yamamoto talks about his upbringing, which hints at answering this question.
Yohji Yamamoto’s obsession with black directly stems from his childhood experience of black. The psychological trauma of these experiences to Yohji Yamamoto is enormous. Having lost his father at an early age, he witnessed his mother’s hard work all year round and studied law to give her a secure life. Since childhood, he has seen the world through the eyes of women prostitutes in Kabuki halls. Society is unfair to women, and he has always been hostile to the men who created and manipulated it. This is also why Yohji Yamamoto’s later women’s fashion creations contain so many neutral elements, contrary to the mainstream trend in Europe and the United States at that time, with broad shoulders, narrow waist, and large skirts. He thinks that this is a restricted woman, not a liberated woman. Women should be comfortable and comfortable to wear, rather than pressed into the fabric. “Black is eternity” is the color of his life and makes him feel very safe.
He likes to draw inspiration from the beauty of traditional Japanese clothing in his design, conveying fashion concepts through rich combinations of colors and materials. In the West, mannequins are mostly cut from top to bottom. Yohji Yamamoto starts from a two-dimensional straight line to form an asymmetric appearance. This unique idea is the essence of Japanese traditional clothing culture because these irregular forms are not artificial at all but appear natural and smooth. In Yohji Yamamoto’s clothing, asymmetrical collar and hem are not uncommon. The dresses of his brand follow the posture and movements to show different looks.
“What’s more annoying than dressing well?” Yamamoto said. So, he hid a bomb in his clothes, playing naughty and playful like a child against this world he could not identify with.